A Day of Fish

EDIT: BBC2 have put out a striking documentary about  Billingsgate Market, following the battles the market is facing as a one of the oldest establishments in London in a rapidly changing city, and the people who live and breath the market life. 

Wholesale markets are typically an elusive world to those not in the food industries - they hit their stride well before the sun has risen and lack the clinical packaged comfort of our grocery stores. While elusive, many of these still welcome those individuals willing to brave the dark hours and bartering banter, and offer many rewards for those who do.

Last weekend, a friend and coworker of mine ventured out just before dawn, bearing south for Billingsgate fish market, on the hunt for some fresh finds. By the time we arrived at 6:45am, the market was well past its busiest time, but a pungent smell of sea water and sea creatures lingered into the car park. We had to do a couple walk around before making our first buys, and the choice and abundance of fish was something I'd never seen before. 

Fish I'd only ever seen in books before and fish I wouldn't even know what to do with flopped over boxes of ice, staring you straight in the eye, wondering if you'd dare try to throw them in a skillet. 

Most of the fish (like this looker just above) were beyond the depth of two city-slickers with minimal fridge space, so we aimed our sights on some smaller varieties. Once our first purchase was made, a slew of others followed and in the end, we walked away with:

23 seam bream

18 scallops

1/2 a salmon

3 dressed crabs

2 sea urchins

1 live lobster

With our loot in tow, we made our way for the only thing one can eat after such a purchase - a kippers breakfast at the greasy spoon in the corner of the market, rubbing elbows with fishmongers and glassy eyed shoppers as we dove into smoked fish and scrambled eggs. 

Fish bought, stomach filled and the effect of our early morning starting to set in, a morning of lethargy, Herzog and fish freezing was in store. Lunch was round two of fish, taking my first stab at searing scallops, much to my flatmate's delight, and served simply with smoked garlic, butter and sauteed broccolini.

Dinner meant traveling to Tom's house, where most of the fish resided for 6 courses of fish-filled gluttony. 

Sea urchins were the one disappointment of the day... not sure I recommend... 

Seared scallops with sweet corn puree and crispy bacon faired much better. 

Home smoked salmon with Tom's hand built smoker was even more impressive, and coupled with some simple rocket and light vinaigrette. 

Posh fish and chips with pan fried seam bream, freshly made chips and peas with tartare sauce was up next, smoking the room up in the process but well worth the hazy view. 

Next up was our friend Henry James, a brave and valiant fellow, who sacrificed himself for us in a feat of gallantry not seen since the Knights of the Round Table. We thank you Henry, you were delicious. 

After some well deserved digestion time and several more glasses of wine (and some buffalo grass vodka), our evening was completed with a rich, gooey chocolate fondant with black cherry sauce. 

And thus completely a day of fish. 

(on the topic of fish.... look out for the next post!)